Nihari began as a breakfast. Nihari originates in the old kitchens of Delhi and later Karachi, where pots of beef or mutton were left on the embers overnight and served at dawn, after Fajr, to labourers who needed something to carry them through the day. The name comes from the Arabic nahar, morning.
Today most people eat Pakistani nihari on a Sunday rather than at sunrise, but the principle has not changed. A classic of Pakistani and North Indian cuisine, nihari is meat, spice and time. Get the cut right and give it the hours it asks for, and you will make a nihari at home as good as anything from your favourite Pakistani restaurant. Rush it, or use the wrong cut, and it will never get there.
The cut is everything
Nihari needs meat with plenty of connective tissue and bone, and bone-in meat gives the best flavour and texture. Over five or six hours that collagen melts into the gravy and gives nihari its glossy, almost silky body, with meat that is fall-apart tender. Lean meat cannot do this. It dries out, turns to threads and leaves the sauce thin.
Beef shank is the classic choice for beef nihari in Pakistan and the one we recommend. It is the lower leg, cut across the bone, with a ring of muscle wrapped in sinew around a marrow-filled centre. THB’s beef shank is cut fresh for exactly this kind of cooking.
Beef shin is the same muscle group without the bone, or with less of it. Beef shin works well, and boneless beef shin is a good choice if you prefer to avoid bones on the plate. Add a few marrow bones to the pot to compensate.
Mutton shank makes a lighter, slightly sweeter nihari that cooks an hour or so faster. Mutton shank is the cut, and if you are unsure whether to go beef or mutton, the guide to mutton vs lamb explains why older animals suit long cooking.
Marrow bones are what turn nihari into nalli nihari. The marrow melts into the gravy and enriches it, and the bones themselves are a prize at the table. THB’s beef bones with marrow come in 1kg packs.
For four to six people, allow 1.5kg of beef shank plus 500g of marrow bones.
Homemade nihari masala
Pre-made nihari masala packets are convenient and perfectly decent. Making your own nihari masala takes ten minutes and gives you a deeper, more fragrant result from fresh spices. This makes enough for one pot.
Dry-roast all the whole spices in a frying pan over a low heat for two to three minutes until fragrant, then cool and grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder: 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 6 green cardamom pods, 2 black cardamom pods, 6 cloves, a 5cm stick of cinnamon, 2 bay leaves, a quarter of a whole nutmeg, 2 blades of mace and 1 star anise.
Stir in the ground spices: 1 tablespoon of Kashmiri chilli powder for colour, 1 teaspoon of hot chilli powder, 1 teaspoon of ground ginger and half a teaspoon of turmeric powder. This blend of whole and ground spices keeps for a month in a sealed jar in the cupboard if you are making it ahead.
How much nihari masala to use
The full batch above is right for 1.5kg of beef shank. If you are using a shop-bought spice mix instead, start with about three-quarters of the packet’s suggested amount and add more towards the end of cooking once you can taste the gravy. Shop blends vary a great deal in salt and heat.
The nihari recipe
Beef nihari ingredients (serves 4 to 6)
- 1.5kg beef shank, cut into pieces on the bone
- 500g beef marrow bones
- 120ml ghee or vegetable oil
- 2 large onions, finely sliced
- 2 tablespoons ginger paste
- 2 tablespoons garlic paste
- The homemade nihari masala above
- 2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
- 2 litres hot water
- 4 tablespoons chapati flour (atta) mixed with 200ml water to make a smooth slurry
To finish: a thumb of ginger cut into fine matchsticks (julienned ginger), 4 fresh green chillies sliced, a large handful of chopped coriander, 2 lemons cut into wedges, a handful of crisp fried onions, and a little garam masala.
Step one: fry the onions
Heat the ghee in a large heavy pot. Fry the sliced onions over a medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until deep golden brown. Lift out half of them and set aside for the garnish. Leave the rest and the ghee in the pot.
Step two: brown the meat
Add the ginger and garlic pastes and fry for a minute. Add the beef shank and marrow bones and turn them in the hot ghee for 8 to 10 minutes until browned all over. Stir in the nihari masala and add the salt, then fry for two minutes more, adding a splash of water if the spices start to catch.
Step three: the long cook
Pour in the hot water and bring to a gentle boil, then skim off any grey scum that rises. Turn the heat down as low as it will go, cover tightly, and cook at the gentlest possible simmer for 5 to 6 hours. Stir every hour and top up with a little hot water if the level drops below the meat.
You can do this in a low oven instead: 140°C (120°C fan), covered, for the same cooking time. An oven gives more even heat and less risk of catching on the base.
The meat is ready when it is falling from the bone and a piece breaks apart with the side of a spoon.
Step four: skim and thicken
This step is what separates good nihari from great nihari. Tilt the pot and spoon off the layer of spiced oil that has risen to the surface. Keep it in a bowl; it is called tari and it goes back on top at the end.
Stir the atta and water together until smooth, then pour the atta slurry slowly into the pot, stirring constantly so it does not form lumps. Simmer for another 20 to 30 minutes, stirring, until the gravy is thick, glossy and coats the back of a spoon. If it is still loose, cook uncovered for a few minutes more. Taste and adjust the salt.
Step five: finish and serve
Ladle the cooked nihari into bowls with a piece of shank and a marrow bone in each, and serve hot. Spoon some of the reserved tari over the top. Scatter with julienned ginger, green chillies, coriander and the reserved fried onions, and add a pinch of garam masala. Nihari is typically served with lemon wedges and hot naan, khamiri roti or tandoori roti for scooping.
Slow cooker and pressure cooker nihari
Slow cooker
Follow steps one and two in a pan on the hob, then transfer everything to the slow cooker with 1.5 litres of hot water (less evaporates than on the hob). Slow cook on low for 9 to 10 hours or high for 6. Skim the tari, then thicken with the atta paste either in the slow cooker on high for the last 45 minutes or in a pan on the hob.
Pressure cooker or Instant Pot
Follow steps one and two using the sauté function, add 1.25 litres of water, seal and cook at high pressure for 75 to 90 minutes for beef, 50 to 60 for mutton. Release naturally, then skim and thicken on the sauté setting. Pressure cooking is not quite the same as six hours on a low flame, but it is close, and it means you can make nihari on a Wednesday.
Getting it right: common problems
The gravy is thin. Either the cut was too lean or there was not enough atta. Add another tablespoon of atta paste and simmer for 15 minutes.
The meat is tough. It needs longer. Shank cannot be rushed; give it another hour.
It tastes flat. Salt is usually the culprit, then acid. Season generously and do not skip the lemon at the table.
It is too oily. Skim more tari off before thickening. Nihari is meant to be rich, but you control how much of that richness goes back on top.
Nihari variations
Nalli nihari
Nalli nihari adds extra marrow bones and is often served with a thin spoon to scoop the marrow.
Maghaz nihari
Maghaz nihari adds poached brain, a much-loved addition in Karachi. Poach lamb brain (maguz) gently in salted water for 10 minutes, then add to the nihari for the last 15 minutes of cooking.
Mutton nihari
Mutton nihari swaps the beef for mutton shank on the bone. It has a slightly richer flavour and is ready about an hour sooner.
Chicken nihari
Chicken nihari is a quicker version using bone-in thighs and legs, ready in about 90 minutes. It lacks the depth of beef but is a good weeknight dish.
For more slow-cooked beef, the guide to cooking beef brisket includes a spiced braised brisket that follows similar principles.
Why fresh shank matters
Over six hours, everything about the meat shows in the final pot. Shank that has been frozen and thawed loses moisture before it even reaches the pan and can turn stringy rather than soft.
THB’s beef shank is butchered fresh, never frozen, vacuum-sealed and delivered chilled within 24 hours. It is certified halal and hand-slaughtered in accordance with Islamic principles. Order it the day before and you can have nihari simmering by the next morning.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best meat for nihari?
Beef shank on the bone is the traditional and best choice, because its connective tissue gives the gravy body over a long cook. Beef shin and mutton shank also work well. Add marrow bones for extra richness.
How long does nihari take to cook?
Five to six hours at a very low simmer on the hob or in a 140°C oven, 9 to 10 hours on low in a slow cooker, or 75 to 90 minutes under pressure for beef.
What is the difference between nihari and paya?
Nihari is made with shank or shin meat. Paya is made with trotters (lamb or beef feet) and has a thinner, more gelatinous broth. Both are slow-cooked breakfast dishes from the same tradition.
Why is atta added to nihari?
The flour thickens the gravy and gives nihari its characteristic smooth, glossy texture. Mix it with water first to avoid lumps, and cook it for at least 20 minutes so it loses its raw taste.
Can I make nihari the day before?
Yes, and it often tastes better. Cool it quickly, refrigerate, and reheat gently with a splash of water. Add the fresh garnishes only when serving.
Can I freeze nihari?
Yes. Freeze without the garnishes for up to three months. Thaw overnight in the fridge and reheat slowly.
Is nihari spicy?
It is warmly spiced rather than fiercely hot. The heat comes mostly from the fresh chillies added at the table, so each person can adjust their own bowl.
Order your shank
Nihari is the dish that rewards patience more than any other. Start with the right cut and the rest follows. Order fresh halal beef shank and marrow bones from THB today, delivered chilled tomorrow, or browse the full beef range.
